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土地 (The Terroirs)

土地 (Terroir) , 這個法國詞匯很難準確翻譯, 籠罩著類似宗教的神秘色彩, 它是一個概括性的術語, 表示自然因素之間複雜的作用……法國人認為：他們的葡萄酒如此出色是土地(Terroir)賜予的。他們把葡萄酒之間的每一個細微差別都歸功於葡萄賴以生長的“地方”— 這片與適時的雨水、陽光、適度的風、適度的土壤濕度和其適度的礦物質含量相互作用的自然力量：土地。“氣候、石礫和土壤”決定了葡萄園的特性, 也就是葡萄酒的品質。每一種葡萄酒都來自獨特的土地；“土地 ”這個詞在法國葡萄酒中是一個最基本的概念, 因為“土地 ”才能生產好酒, 才使得葡萄酒多樣化, 表現出該範圍的特性和風格, 它甚至表明了葡萄酒是如何命名的。更簡單地描述，就是一種「具有地方特色」的概念，也是法國獨有的特色。同一品種的葡萄，在不同

的「土地」和「氣候」之下，亦會釀出味道不同的葡萄酒。世上沒有完全相同的兩片Terroir，就「正如人的指紋和DNA一樣！」「葡萄酒是葡萄園裏長出來的而不是釀制廠釀出來的」；偉大而謙虛的釀酒師，都將葡萄酒傑出的表現歸於 Terroir，而不是自己的功勞。法國各產區成千上萬種的不同風土條件，也是造就不同風格獨特葡萄酒的重要條件。所以, 大多數法國釀酒生產者所用的名片上的頭銜是葡萄種植者(Winegrower), 他們知道自己是幹什麼的, 他們把自己說成是這塊土地的管理人。“這塊土地先於他們而存在, 在他們去逝之後仍然永久存在下去。”「土地 (Terroir) 主宰著一切!」 ( 請再參覽： http://www.terroir-france.com/theclub/meaning.htm )

波爾多的土地(Bordeaux Terroir)

波爾多葡萄酒“法定地名”(AOC)產區： 法國的釀酒者們意識到他們所處的位置, 他們所釀制的葡萄酒中含有葡萄所生長的土地給予它們的礦物質。波爾多的葡萄酒優勢不僅來自於以下幾個地區的特殊土地, 以及氣候與土壤的獨特的結合； 還因為, 經過幾個世紀的探索, 葡萄種植者已經摸索出哪一種葡萄能在這裏生長得最好。而能夠在這裏生長茂盛的葡萄也正是世界上最優良的葡萄品種。 整個波爾多擁有 57 個波爾多法定命名產區 (AOC), 可分為 6 個風格不同的系列：覆蓋吉隆特 (Gironde) 省的波爾多 (Bordeaux) 及優级波爾多 (Bordeaux Superieur)、加隆河左岸 (the Left Bank of the Garonne River) 的梅鐸 (Medoc) 和格拉夫 (Graves)、度多湼河右岸 (the Right Bank of the Dordogne River) 的聖達美利安 -龐馬隆 – 芳薩 (Saint‧Emilion – Pomerol – Fronsac)、在两河岸邊的山丘谷地中的波爾多丘 (Cotes de Bordeaux) 以及乾白酒和甜白酒園區。波爾多酒農憑 9 種認可葡萄釀造了一系列色、香、味皆多采多姿的乾红、乾白及甜白葡萄美酒：有用以釀造乾红酒的馬碧 (Malbec)、美樂 (Merlot)、赤霞珠 (Cabernet Sauvignon)、品麗珠 (Cabernet Franc) 和小維鐸 (Petit Verdot), 和釀造乾白酒和甜白酒的長相思(Sauvignon Blanc)、賽蜜蓉 (Semillon) 及蜜思卡岱 (Muscadelle)。以下 AOC 區域都有自己的獨特的土地, 獨特和超級的葡萄酒產品,名滿天下：

	• Bordeaux & Bordeaux Supérieur terroirs 冠以：The AOC-Bordeaux Terroir (波爾多傳統的葡萄酒法定名稱產區)。區域覆蓋面廣, 通常生產混合型紅葡萄酒, 用3-5種釀制紅葡萄酒的葡萄釀制：赤霞珠、美樂、品麗珠和小維爾多(Petit Verdot)、瑪爾貝(Malbec)。總轄區包括：Bordeaux Suprieur / Bordeaux Clairet / Bordeaux / Médoc / Bordeaux Dry White / Sauternes
	•The Côtes de Bordeaux terroir (兩河岸間中部) 指的是吉倫特右岸葡萄酒產區, 大眾化的波爾多葡萄酒。有以下法定產區： Fronsac,Canon-Fronsac/Cotes de Bourg/Premieres Cotes De Bordeaux/Cotes de Francs/Bordeaux-cotes de Blaye 等著名園區。產量不高。
	• The Médoc and Graves terroirs (左岸) 指的是吉倫特河左岸產區。該區的葡萄酒如陳放時間不到十年, 就會澀而苦；但隨著陳放年限久遠,這種葡萄酒便產生一種層次完整的第二期芳香和複雜氣味,顏色變淡, 味道芳香、柔和...這裏有法國最好的葡萄酒同時也是世界上享有最高聲譽的葡萄酒。它的法定轄區包括：Margaux/Moulis en Medoc/Pauillac/Saint-Julien/ Listrac-Medoc
	• The Saint-Emilion,Pomerol, Fronsac terroirs (右岸) 這片土地位於利布爾納(Libourne)一帶,也屬右岸區域。適宜美樂Merlot葡萄生長,酒不那麼鞣質和澀味,整個右岸的波爾多葡萄酒比左岸的更能讓人早一些享用。AOC的轄區也含：Puisseguin-Saint-Emilion/ Lalande-de-Pomerol /Saint-Emilion/ Fronsac /Canon Fronsac
Vins blanc Secs	• The Bordeaux dry white wine terroir 波爾多乾白葡萄酒主要產區是在度多湼河(Dordogne)北部和東部两個地區。通常用白索維農和賽米翁两種葡萄混合釀制白葡萄酒,第三種白葡萄品種是蜜思卡岱 (Muscadelle)。AOC的轄區含：Crémant de Bordeaux/ Graves de Vayres/ Premières Côtes de Blaye/ Graves
Vins blanc d'Or	• The Sweet Wines Terroir 位於波爾多城以南約25英里處, 蘇特恩(Sauternes)和巴薩克(Barsac)的甜白葡萄酒名譽全球。這種自然甘甜的葡萄酒是由於一次大自然的令人愉快的偶發事件而造成的的傑作, 一種叫做貴腐病Noble Ro t使得當地的葡萄賽米翁萎縮得像葡萄乾, 凝聚了充分的糖份和產生不同尋常的味道, 釀制出別有風味的均衡和醇厚的、傑出的、無與倫比的甜白葡萄酒。該法定產區有：Sauternes - Barsac / Bordeaux Moelleux / Cérons / Sainte-Croix du Mont /Cadillac.
Bordeaux and Neighboring Regions	........................

 

《頂級澳洲酒參考指南》
Langton's Classification of Australian Wine V

雖然澳洲目前還未有分級制度強制執行的法律制度，但澳洲著名的葡萄酒拍賣公司Langton's 每五年編訂的Classification of Australian Wine一直是葡萄酒迷很重視的購酒參考指南，新出爐的2010年評選結果終於在上週五公佈。這次比2005年新增了33款品項，這份報告不僅給予澳洲酒極為正面的評價，同時也反應市場消費需求上升和澳洲酒近年來亮眼的表現!
此次2010年新編定入選的的澳洲酒包含58款希哈(含混釀)，40款卡本內蘇維濃(含混釀)，10 款黑皮諾和 15 款白酒，共計123款，列分為4大種類-Exceptional (頂級酒), Outstanding(特級酒), Excellent (高級酒)a nd Distinguished (優秀酒)。

 

▇ Langton's Classification of Australian Wine V(2010)

◆ 1. Class 1-Exceptional (頂級酒-17 款):

The most highly sought-after and prized Australian wines on the market.
1-1 PENFOLDS -Bin 95 Grange Shiraz-South Australia
1-2 BASS PHILLIP -Reserve Pinot Noir-South Gippsland Victoria
1-3 BROKENWOOD WINES-Graveyard Vineyard Shiraz-Hunter Valley New South Wales
1-4 CHRIS RINGLAND-Shiraz-Barossa South Australia
1-5 CLARENDON HILLS-Astralis Syrah-McLaren Vale South Australia
1-6 CLONAKILLA-Shiraz Viognier-Canberra District New South Wales
1-7 CULLEN-Diana Madeline Cabernet Merlot-Margaret River Western Australia
1-8 GIACONDA -Chardonnay-Beechworth Victoria
1-9 GROSSET-Polish Hill Riesling-Clare Valley South Australia
1-10 HENSCHKE-Hill of Grace Shiraz-Eden Valley South Australia
1-11 LEEUWIN ESTATE-Art Series Chardonnay-Margaret River Western Australia
1-12 MOSS WOOD-Cabernet Sauvignon-Margaret River Western Australia
1-13 MOUNT MARY-Quintet Cabernet Blend-Yarra Valley Victoria
1-14 PENFOLDS Bin 707 -Cabernet Sauvignon-South Australia
1-15 ROCKFORD-Basket Press Shiraz-Barossa Valley South Australia
1-16 TORBRECK-RunRig Shiraz-Barossa Valley South Australia
1-17 WENDOUREE-Shiraz-Clare Valley South Australia

◆ 2. Class 2-Outstanding (特級酒-32款):

‘Super seconds’ of the Australian wine market, these are benchmark quality wines with a very strong market following.
2-1 BALNAVES OF COONAWARRA-The Tally Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon-Coonawarra South Australia
2-2 BAROSSA VALLEY ESTATE-E & E Black Pepper Shiraz-Barossa Valley South Australia
2-3 BASS PHILLIP-Premium Pinot Noir-South Gippsland Victoria
2-4 BEST'S-Thomson Family Great Western Shiraz-Grampians Victoria
2-5 BINDI-Block 5 Pinot Noir-Macedon Ranges Victoria
2-6 d'ARENBERG-The Dead Arm Shiraz-McLaren Vale South Australia
2-7 DALWHINNIE-The Eagle Shiraz-Pyrenees Victoria
2-8 DE BORTOLI-Noble One Botrytis Semillon-Riverina New South Wales
2-9 GRANT BURGE-Meshach Shiraz-Barossa South Australia
2-10 GREENOCK CREEK-Roennfeldt Road Cabernet Sauvignon-Barossa Valley South Australia
2-11 GREENOCK CREEK-Roennfeldt Road Shiraz-Barossa Valley South Australia
2-12 GROSSET-Springvale Riesling-Watervale South Australia
2-13 HARDY'S-Eileen Hardy Shiraz-South Australia
2-14 HENSCHKE-Mount Edelstone Shiraz-Eden Valley South Australia
2-15 JASPER HILL-Emily's Paddock Shiraz Cabernet Franc-Heathcote Victoria
2-16 JASPER HILL-Georgia's Paddock Shiraz-Heathcote Victoria
2-17 JIM BARRY-The Armagh Shiraz-Clare Valley South Australia
2-18 KAESLER WINES-Old Bastard Shiraz-Barossa Valley South Australia
2-19 KATNOOK ESTATE-Odyssey Cabernet Sauvignon-Coonawarra South Australia
2-20 KAY BROTHERS AMERY VINEYARDS-Block 6 Old Vine Shiraz-McLaren Vale South Australia
2-21 MAJELLA-The Malleea Cabernet Shiraz-Coonawarra South Australia
2-22 MCWILLIAM'S-Mount Pleasant Lovedale Semillon-Hunter Valley New South Wales
2-23 MOUNT MARY-Pinot Noir-Yarra Valley Victoria
2-24 NOON -Reserve Shiraz-Langhorne Creek South Australia
2-25 PENFOLDS-Bin 389 Cabernet Shiraz-South Australia
2-26 PENFOLDS-St. Henri Shiraz-South Australia
2-27 PIERRO-Chardonnay-Margaret River Western Australia
2-28 TAHBILK-1860 Vines Shiraz-Nagambie Lakes Victoria
2-29 TYRRELL'S-Vat 1 Semillon-Hunter Valley New South Wales
2-30 WENDOUREE-Cabernet Sauvignon-Clare Valley South Australia
2-31 WYNNS COONAWARRA ESTATE-John Riddoch Cabernet Sauvignon-Coonawarra South Australia
2-32 YALUMBA-The Octavius Old Vine Shiraz-Barossa South Australia

◆ 3. Excellent (高級酒-36款):

High-performing wines of exquisite quality achieving slightly lower values and market interest.
3-1 BANNOCKBURN-Serré Pinot Noir-Geelong Victoria
3-2 BEST'S-Bin No.O Great Western Shiraz-Grampians Victoria
3-3 BINDI-Original Vineyard Pinot Noir-Macedon Ranges Victoria
3-4 CAPE MENTELLE-Cabernet Sauvignon-Margaret River Western Australia
3-5 CORIOLE-Lloyd Reserve Shiraz-McLaren Vale South Australia
3-6 CRAIGLEE-Shiraz-Sunbury Victoria
3-7 DALWHINNIE-Moonambel Shiraz-Pyrenees Victoria
3-8 DOMAINE A-Cabernet Sauvignon-Coal River Valley Tasmania
3-9 ELDERTON-Command Single Vineyard Shiraz-Barossa Valley South Australia
3-10 FOX CREEK-Reserve Shiraz-McLaren Vale South Australia
3-11 GIACONDA-Warner Vineyard Shiraz-Beechworth Victoria
3-12 HENSCHKE-Cyril Henschke Cabernet Sauvignon-Eden Valley South Australia
3-13 HOUGHTON-Jack Mann Cabernet-Frankland River-Great Southern Western Australia
3-14 HOWARD PARK-Abercrombie Cabernet-Great Southern-Margaret River Western Australia
3-15 KATNOOK ESTATE-Prodigy Shiraz-Coonawarra South Australia
3-16 LAKE'S FOLLY-White Label Cabernet Blend-Hunter Valley New South Wales
3-17 LEO BURING-Leonay Riesling-Eden Valley/Watervale South Australia
3-18 MAIN RIDGE ESTATE-Half Acre Pinot Noir-Mornington Peninsula Victoria
3-19 MOUNT MARY-Chardonnay-Yarra Valley Victoria
3-20 NOON-Reserve Cabernet-Langhorne Creek South Australia
3-21 PARINGA ESTATE-The Paringa Single Vineyard Pinot Noir-Mornington Peninsula Victoria
3-22 PARKER COONAWARRA ESTATE-Terra Rossa First Growth Cabernet Merlot-Coonawarra South Australia
3-23 PENFOLDS-Magill Estate Shiraz-Adelaide South Australia
3-24 PENFOLDS-RWT Shiraz-Barossa South Australia
3-25 PETALUMA-Coonawarra-Coonawarra South Australia
3-26 PETER LEHMANN-Stonewell Shiraz-Barossa South Australia
3-27 SEPPELT-St Peters Great Western Vineyards Shiraz-Grampians Victoria
3-28 ST HALLETT-Old Block Shiraz-Barossa South Australia
3-29 TORBRECK-Descendant Shiraz Viognier-Barossa Valley South Australia
3-30 VASSE FELIX-Heytesbury Cabernet Blend-Margaret River Western Australia
3-31 WENDOUREE-Cabernet Malbec-Clare Valley South Australia
3-32 WENDOUREE-Shiraz Malbec-Clare Valley South Australia
3-33 WENDOUREE-Shiraz Mataro-Clare Valley South Australia
3-34 WYNNS COONAWARRA ESTATE-Cabernet Sauvignon-Coonawarra South Australia
3-35 YARRA YERING-Dry Red Wine No.1 Cabernet-Yarra Valley Victoria
3-36 YERINGBERG-Cabernet Blend-Yarra Valley Victoria

◆ 4. Distinguished (優秀酒-38款):

Secondary market staples or emerging classics. Sometimes undervalued by the market.
4-1 BOWEN ESTATE-Cabernet Sauvignon-Coonawarra South Australia
4-2 CASTAGNA-Genesis Syrah-Beechworth Victoria
4-3 CHARLES MELTON -Nine Popes Shiraz Grenache Mourvèdre-Barossa Valley South Australia
4-4 COLDSTREAM HILLS-Reserve Pinot Noir-Yarra Valley Victoria
4-5 CRAWFORD RIVER WINES-Riesling-Henty Victoria
4-6 d'ARENBERG WINES-The Coppermine Road Cabernet Sauvignon-McLaren Vale South Australia
4-7 FREYCINET VINEYARDS -Pinot Noir-East Coast Tasmania
4-8 JACOB'S CREEK-St. Hugo Cabernet Sauvignon-Coonawarra South Australia
4-9 KATNOOK ESTATE-Cabernet Sauvignon-Coonawarra South Australia
4-10 KILIKANOON-Oracle Shiraz-Clare Valley South Australia
4-11 LEEUWIN ESTATE-Art Series Cabernet Sauvignon-Margaret River Western Australia
4-12 LINDEMANS-Limestone Ridge Vineyard Shiraz Cabernet-Coonawarra South Australia
4-13 MAJELLA-Cabernet-Coonawarra South Australia
4-14 MCWILLIAM'S-Mount Pleasant Maurice O'Shea Shiraz-Hunter Valley New South Wales
4-15 MOUNT LANGI GHIRAN-Langi Shiraz-Grampians Victoria
4-16 PARINGA ESTATE-The Paringa Single Vineyard Shiraz-Mornington Peninsula Victoria
4-17 PENFOLDS-Bin 128 Shiraz-Coonawarra South Australia
4-18 PENFOLDS-Bin 28 Kalimna Shiraz-South Australia
4-19 PENFOLDS-Bin 407 Cabernet Sauvignon-South Australia
4-20 PETALUMA-Hanlin Hill Riesling-Clare Valley South Australia
4-21 PEWSEY VALE-The Contours Riesling-Eden Valley South Australia
4-22 ROLF BINDER-Veritas Hanisch Shiraz-Barossa Valley South Australia
4-23 SALLY'S PADDOCK-Redbank Winery Cabernet Shiraz Cabernet Franc Merlot-Pyrenees Victoria
4-24 SAVATERRE-Chardonnay-Beechworth Victoria
4-25 TIM ADAMS-The Aberfeldy Shiraz-Clare Valley South Australia
4-26 TURKEY FLAT-Shiraz-Barossa Valley South Australia
4-27 TYRRELL'S-Vat 47 Chardonnay-Hunter Valley New South Wales
4-28 VASSE FELIX-Cabernet Sauvignon-Margaret River Western Australia
4-29 VOYAGER ESTATE-Cabernet Sauvignon Merlot-Margaret River Western Australia
4-30 WANTIRNA ESTATE-Amelia Cabernet Merlot-Yarra Valley Victoria
4-31 WILD DUCK CREEK ESTATE-Springflat Shiraz-Heathcote Victoria
4-32 WIRRA WIRRA-RSW Shiraz-McLaren Vale South Australia
4-33 WOLF BLASS-Black Label-South Australia
4-34 WOLF BLASS-Platinum Label Shiraz-South Australia
4-35 WOODLANDS-Cabernet Sauvignon-Margaret River Western Australia
4-36 WYNNS COONAWARRA ESTATE-Michael Shiraz-Coonawarra South Australia
4-37 YALUMBA-The Signature Cabernet Shiraz-Barossa South Australia
4-38 YARRA YARRA VINEYARD-The Yarra Yarra Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon-Yarra Valley Victoria

(資料來源﹕Andrew Caillard MW, Langton's)